The Good Food Guide has banned the use of gastropub, it doesn’t like the word one bit. But sometimes, I think it’s necessary. There’s a difference between a pub selling two roast dinners for £7.95 and a pub that offers game pie or slow braised beef onglet. Why not have a word to describe this difference?
We kept walking by what I’d called a gastropub in St Albans and every time I read the menu, my mouth would water. So come my birthday, himself suggested we go there – The Cock Inn – for lunch. I was very excited.
There was a bit of confusion when we arrived. We were standing in the waiting area and the barman asked if we wanted drinks, so we ordered some. Then I think the restaurant staff thought we didn’t want to eat, so they ignored us for a bit. Eventually we got a table and, after a little bit of prompting, himself even got the coffee he’d ordered.
When it came to starters, I opted for the chargrilled black pudding, served with smoky bacon, celeriac and apple salad, and aioli. It was good, but I though the pudding could have done with a couple of more minutes on the grill.
Black pudding at the Cock Inn
Himself ordered the panne of poached egg, with crushed new potatoes, wilted spinach and béchamel sauce. This was excellent – he was very impressed.
Panne of poached egg
For mains, I ordered a pork dish that came with butter beans and other lovely things. This was really good and very filling.
Pork and Butter beans at the Cock Inn
He ordered fish and chips and was slightly underwhelmed. I thought the mushy peas – which were beautifully minty – were lovely. Himself wasn’t as convinced.
Overall, it was a good meal and despite its rather impressive menu, the Cock Inn is as cheap as chip – two courses for £8.95 Monday to Saturday between 12 and 3pm.
If you’re around St Albans, it’s worth a visit. It’s not pretentious as gastropubs are sometimes thought to be – but it does offer very good pub food.
48 St Peters Street, St Albans, Herlfordshire, AL1 3NF
